My Travel Dairy: October 2007

yaadon ki sheyahi se likha hai jo khat

padhna usse tum

masoomiyat ki kalam se bekhre usme jo moti

sawarna usse tum

likhon mai...

sawan ki bel se bandha hai mene jo jhula

bethna us par tum

woh bageeche ki himmat se bana hai jo phool

seench na usse tum

meri badi ki khaan se nikla hai jo heera

tarashna usse tum

sannate ki rahon me bhatka hai jo dil

raah dikhana usse tum

dard ki aagosh me simta hai jo man

marham dena usse tum

madhosi ki alam me toote hain jo khowaab

bhula dena unhe tum

chahaton ki nighahon se saunpi hai jo rooh

amar karna usse tum

pyara jawaab fir kasam hai tum jo dena

intezaar na karwana usme tum

(C) kagaz ki kashti

Being born to a Geologist, love for traveling & adventure is in my blood. Today I am beginning a new series of “My Visits” that would give my traveling and adventure experiences felt & encountered visiting many cities & historic places. Hope this series is enjoyable the same as I experienced visiting them & helpful for others who would like to visit them in future. Beginning with a pious place called “Haji Ali Dargah”.
Though this is not my first visit to this place, but recently on 24th Aug 2007 I was here. This day being special for me, I went along with my loving family.
History of the Dargah:
A landmark on the Mumbai skyline is a whitewashed dargah standing tall inside the Arabian Sea, a tomb of a Muslim saint Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari {R.A}. Thousands of pilgrims, rich or the poor visit each day from Mumbai and beyond to the door of benediction for the fulfillment of their desires and wishes, which the devout claim, do come true. Many are attracted here by the beauty of this site too. And I was here for both the reasons!
Islam means Peace. Spreading the ethical and spiritual values of Islam was done by the Walis of Allah (saints) and Pir Haji Ali Shah was one of them. He was a wealthy merchant who renounced all his worldly possessions before making a pilgrimage to Mecca. His humanistic approach and piety won the hearts of lacs of people. He served, loved and lived with them in the realization of Eternal Truth. Unfortunately he died on his way to Mecca. Before his death he advised his followers that they should not burry him at any graveyard but should drop his casket into the sea to be buried by the people where and when it would be found. The casket surfaced intact at the spot where the shrine is today, 500 yards into the sea from the shore. A Dargah was then built by Haji Usman Rangikar, the man who owned the ship that took pilgrims to Mecca.
Dargah can only be reached at low tide, when the causeway that leads to the shrine is above water. The causeway with the sea on both sides is one of the highlights of the trip to this shrine. During high tide, the connecting causeway is submerged in water giving the impression that the dargah is floating on sea.
Before entering the Dargah we bought “elachi dana’, flowers for making a ‘Fateha’ and dua here. These offering can be bought from any shops at the causeway. A short flight of marble steps leads into the dargah, I captured a Sadhu sitting on these steps in a solitary mood. People from all faiths were seen surrounding me and I smiled happily. Behind the huge marble doorway lies the tomb enclosed in a white structure lying in an exquisite silver frame supported by marble pillars. The dome inside is covered in colorful glass arranged in a kaleidoscopic pattern, of Allah’s 99 names. The top of the tomb was covered with zari cloth and flowers.
Inside the Haji Ali dargah compound, I noticed the side structure was covered in the brocade red and green chaddar offered at the dargah by the devotees. A donation box is also seen for charity purpose, managed by the Dargah Trust committee. I was in the ladies room like in all mosques/dargah a separate room is provided for females to offer prayers. Beautiful view of inside can be seen from here too as seen in this photograph.
The white dome and the solitary minaret of the mosque behind the dargah stand out on the west shoreline of Mumbai. The Masjid is picturesque with a vast courtyard & refreshment stalls. The appetite grows with crunchy, flavored masala smelled all over in the courtyard. The Keema samosas are best here. We watched the qawaals sing a “josh” devotional qawaali at the platform while enjoying these Keema samosas. This musical evening was mystic.
The rocks exposed at low tide behind the Masjid are a favorite spot if you are interested in catching sea breezes. We enjoyed splashing in sea here too.
While returning I noticed the walkway is lined with pitiful wailing beggars. Any man would feel for these beggars. A part of my first salary was distributed to these beggars on my first visit here.
There are two building called Mashriqui and Maghribi manzil for resident who come visiting from far off lands for a stay. It is learnt from a reliable source that the Dargah and the Mosque will be reconstructed, remodeled and renovated again by the Trustees out of the Trust fund starting this auspicious day of Eid-ul-Fitr that is on 13th Oct 2007.

Photos taken on 24th Aug 2007
Location: Haji Ali Dargah, Mumbai, India. 10 kms from Mumbai International /Domestic Airport. Its also a walking distance from Mahalakshmi Railway Station. Buses route to Haji Ali from every corner of Mumbai. Please do not take your own car as there is no parking space.
Best Time to Visit: Thursday & Friday evenings.